I'm terrible at reading translations. It shouldn't make a difference, but it does. I wonder if you're familiar with this feeling - that fear of the avid reader that by not reading something in its original, intended language, you're losing out on something vital. That perhaps something important gets lost in translation.
It's not fair, really. Translations have been winning prizes left, right and centre over the past few years - Flights by Olga Tokarczuk comes to mind which, after winning an International Booker prize, went on to win a Nobel Prize in literature for Olga and which, by the way, I still need to read. And I have no doubt that thousands of brilliantly translated books keep appearing on the market that, due to this ungrounded fear, so many of us miss out on.
This is a convoluted way of telling you that White Fever: A Journey to the Frozen Heart of Siberia by Jacek Hugo-Bader is translated from the original Polish, and it is an exquisite work that took me by surprise.
In a modified Russian jeep, Jacek sets off on a journey of nearly 13,000km from Moscow to Vladivostok, documenting the people, lives and customs he encounters on the way. With a sharp eye and an even sharper interview style, the author gives a clear glimpse into not only the country as it is now, but the traumas and history it continues to grapple with 30 years on from the collapse of the Soviet Union. Through fragments of conversations and insights, he creates a full picture.
Snapshots
The author presents a wide range of lives, from the stereotype of what an ignorant Westerner like me imagines life in Siberia to be - viewed through a lens of American films and the perceptions I scraped together over the years - and all the way to the other end of the spectrum where, for example, shamanism and religious cults reside. He explores a dying hippie culture, the music scene (from hip-hop to anarcho-punk and fascist rock) and the AIDS epidemic in Russia, moving on to meeting Mikhail Timofeyevich Kalashnikov - yes, him, and a shocking encounter it turns out to be - and travelling on to villages in old nuclear testing grounds, religious congregations and the isolated indigenous communities.
There is no 'everywhere' in this book. Each new place or peoples Jacek meets, the revelations, opinions and reactions differ widely. And yet through these snapshots, a feeling starts to emerge, a sense of Russian values and mind sets. A stubbornness, perhaps, or 'their languid way of waiting for disaster to happen before getting on with anything', as he describes it.
Self-preservation is a recurring theme, a priority especially in these harsh conditions. When Jacek suffers an accident in his car while driving, the lorry driver he was trying to overtake makes sure Jacek is alive, then drives away hurriedly without giving him a ride. The book also opens with telling the reader that in Siberia, no one will stop for you at night if your car breaks down. They are afraid of bandits. People die of hypothermia out there, setting their cars on fire as a last effort to keep warm. Without success. But they know no one will stop.
It is not an easy read by any measure. Alcoholism, suicide, terrorism and death occur much more often in this work than love or even satisfaction. With temperatures reaching minus forty in winter, with no cities - and often no electricity - around, with a police culture that is only there to protect if you can buy that protection (the 'impunity, rapacity and corruption' of the militia is legendary), this is as desolate a landscape as it gets. Jacek has a masterful style in selecting what is relevant for the reader to get some kind of an understanding of why things are the way they are, without holding back.
Jacek often employs a brilliant toungue-in-cheek approach to coax people to talk to him. He provokes, takes small stabs and waits for the reactions. He gently mocks and questions, and this kind of witty approach to all the horrors he encounters allows us not just to be truly horrified by what we are reading, but to really engage with it. He puts a hand on the subject matter saying 'look, it's fine to touch'.
'The technical term is delirium tremens'
White fever itself is a condition that can set in after a few days of boozing, even once the person has sobered up. It is an after-effect, a sort of whiplash after days of heavy drinking. Its effect is delirium, often with hallucinations - hearing or seeing demons and voices.
'One day he ran out of the tent in the middle of winter without his jacket and hat. He was entirely sober, but this was soon after a tremendous, four or five-day drinking spree. He ran blindly ahead without stopping for two days and nights.' (Later, when discussing this story: 'He wasn't running, he was fleeing.')
It is discussed in what is perhaps the hardest part to read in the book, a chapter about the Evenks, one of the indigenous peoples of the Russian North. Jacek spends a week or so with them, recounting a truly staggering amount of death and suicide, narrating the story of Brigade Number One, a collective of seventeen reindeer herders, falling victim to the white fever one by one.
The story of the ex-nuclear test sites comes close. Here, he explores the shocking effects and attempted cover-ups of nuclear testing in the 1950s. The cancer that still affects those whose parents or grandparents lived here during that time. When bombs were tested not 50kms away from villages.
Let it be enough to say that the chapter is constructed according to the nine circles of hell.
'Are you happy?' 'I don't know. But I don't feel sad.'
I'd like to think things must be different now, over there in this strange and far-removed world. But this was written in 2008.
Often it is crazy, absolute madness, outrageous. Something inside me screams the whole way. How are these things possible in today's world? But the people might just shrug at me if I asked them. 'How should I know?'
Some of the scenes casually recounted in this book will continue to haunt me, but it's possible to see beauty too. It's as bittersweet as Russian music sounds to me, the sad notes somehow constructing a slightly more upbeat melody. An enlightening read, for sure, and an excellent piece of reportage.
8/10
