One More Croissant for the Road by Felicity Cloake | Book Review | Sheer Foodie Perfection

In my humble opinion, everything comes down to food in the end.

Whether you're sad and in need of comfort; whether you're celebrating and wishing to do so in style; or whether you're travelling and in search of what might be deemed an authentically local experience - it always comes down to the food.

Not to mention foodie books. Thinking back to Pie Fidelity, which I loved so very much, or delighting in Nora Ephron's words on the joys of cooking, a well-written book about food brings me nearly as much pleasure as eating said food.

Before I start raving about One More Croissant for the Road, a word on the author's credentials...

Who is Felicity Cloake?

You might have come across her in The Guardian and her delicious regular column, 'How to Make the Perfect', which is an absolute gem. Here, she collects and tests recipes for a certain dish from many credible sources, from the top chefs to grassroots, and by testing them all she creates the 'perfect' overall recipe that incorporates the best from the source material. You might be skeptical, and I was too, until I tried her perfect patatas bravas recipe and I can tell you that it changed my life. It's an eternal truth that he or she who shares a truly foolproof recipe wins eternal trust.

One More Croissant for the Road

So now she has my eternal trust, and now I begin to follow her on Instagram, where she is a delight; and now I have ordered her book, One More Croissant for the Road, which tells the story of how she traveled around France on her trusty bicycle, Eddy, eating her way through the most legendary dishes of each region as she goes. So now, she has combined my two favourite genres in her book.

I approve of her dishes of choice 100%. From moules marinières ("huge pans of mussels in a heady, wine-soaked sauce with a great dollop of yellow crème fraîche left to melt on top") through tartiflette ("superior efforts like this are lubricated with the same refreshingly acidic local plonk we're glugging with it, with gently cooked cheese that runs over the potatoes like cream") and the obligatory boeuf bourguignon ("with a richly-savoury sauce and great hunks of gelatinous meat, served with not one, but two types of heavily garlicked carbs") she really knows her stuff, and armed with a Michelin guide, she knows where to get it too.

The beauty of her writing and general attitude, though, is crucial in making this such a jolly read. "Powerless in the face of hot garlic butter," (aren't we all?) "I start with yet more snails. Let no one ever say I don't suffer for my art." She never shies away from "pig snout, soft pink sausage and the best tripe" she's ever tasted; from starting almost every morning with a croissant (rated 1-10) and, most likely, another new type of pastry that she either finishes or crams, half-eaten, into her pannier. She stops often, for drinks, for photos, for elevensies. She enjoys herself. (Most of the time. The going gets tough for everyone sometimes, especially when her booked hotel is on the other of the two identically named roads after a day that's already been really long.)

I must also mention that she includes her own recipes for these most famous of dishes in the book, which I have earmarked and will be cooking - especially her clafoutis aux cerises, her tarte Tatin and her ratatouille, all wonderfully doable, even when so reliant on sad Tesco produce.

The book is a combination of beautiful scenery, delicious dishes eaten the right way, honesty about the ups and downs - rain and hills and the occasional indigestion - and the joie de vivre without which this book would be nowhere near as entertaining. As it happens, Felicity is an expert.

Overall...

I weep when I think about the tasteless vegetables UK supermarkets have on offer after finally finishing this wonderful book. But not to give up hope - after all, anything will taste much better with a good bottle of wine (some of which should probably go into the dish you're making).

Croissants are a different story. I'm delighted to report my local M&S does a deliciously flaky, buttery and crisp on the outside version which, although no idea how Felicity would rate it, I enjoy thoroughly when I head out directly after finishing the book to munch on in the sunshine. I must say I never rated croissants: they look too small, to bland to satisfy my usual breakfast cravings. But this seems to have changed with a bit of attention and mindfulness.

For these strange times, I cannot think of a better book to whisk my imagination away and all the way to sunny France, where tomatoes as big as my head grow and where salads are 80% bacon and 20% green ("as health insurance"). If you're an aspiring vegetarian, like me, the struggle will be real. You will be craving juicy meat. But that's okay sometimes.

10/10